What Ingredients in Cosmetics Cause Acne

by Lisel Torgerson

Before buying any cosmetic product, it is important to understand the meaning of the word comedogenic. Its definition is "tending to produce or aggravate acne". Therefore, a comedogenic ingredient or product is one that will exacerbate acne problems.

For this reason, it is a good idea to read the label of your skin care and cosmetic products before buying them. If you find any comedogenic components, stay away from that product. If you have already purchased a product containing these types of components, throw it out.

Acne Formation

Our skin's sebum is complex, composed of six or seven principal components, including triglycerides and squalene, a precursor of cholesterol. The triglycerides are broken down on the surface of the skin by bacteria to liberate fatty acids, which cause acne breakouts in genetically predisposed families. As we will see, many cosmetics also include these acids. Unfortunately, some cosmetics include esters of fatty acids such as isopropyl mystrate or butyl stearate which are more likely to boost the production of some acne lesions. These cosmetics can interfere with traditional adult acne treatments.

Before we discuss cosmetic components, we should consider the purpose of sebum. We could assume that sebum is vital to our skin's health. However, there is no evidence to that effect. Apparently, the discharge of sebum is just a vestige whose function has been lost in the path of evolution.

Sebum does not avoid wrinkles either. Wrinkling, or aging of the skin, is a reflection of accumulated sun exposure, and no moisturizer on the market is capable of reversing the natural, aging process.

Harmful Ingredients in Acne Treatments

Three main categories of offending components

Lanolins Among cosmetics ingredients, the most commonly used is lanolin. Lanolin is simply sheep skin oil taken from wool. The fatty acids in lanolin, just like fatty acids in our own oil, tend to aggravate some acne in the skin of individuals with inherited tendency towards acne. Many lanolin derivatives currently being used in cosmetics are damaging to acne-prone people, i.e., etoxylated lanolins and acetylated lanolins. The partially chemical lanolins are able to penetrate skin pores even better than natural lanolin. Lanolin oil, itself, is acceptable.

Isopropyl Myristate and its Chemical Cousins

One of the worst products is a penetrating oil known as isopropyl myristate. It is the main component in penetrating rust remover called Liquid Wrench. Isopropyl Myristate aids cosmetics go on more smoothly and have a slicker feel. This particular penetrating oil is so invading that if left over night in a beaker, it will actually migrate over the top, down the sides and onto the table top. There are many chemicals analogous to isopropyl myristate in cosmetics. The most common are: putty sterate, myristyl myristate, isostearyl neopentonate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl sterate, octyl palmitate, isopropyl isothermal, decyl oleate and isocetyl stearate and PPG myristyl propionate. All must be avoided, as must other surfactants such as laureth-4.

Drugs As Acne Treatments

Maybe one the most troublesome recent findings about acne-causing potential is the red colorations used in blushes. Some of the red dyes used in drugs and cosmetics are comedogenic. This discovery is not unexpected considering they are coal tar derivatives. Ever since doctors noticed that acne was an occupational hazard of chimney sweeps, coal tar has been recognized for its acne-causing properties. An acceptable substitute for red color is carmine, a dye derived from insect wings and discovered by the Aztecs.

Always be on the look out for these comedogenic components. Take a moment and read product labels. This simple action can keep your skin beautiful and healthy.

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Published December 24th, 2007

Filed in Beauty, Health, Women